75th Anniversary of D-Day, June 6, 2019
Normandy, France
Normandy was the site of the famous Operation Overlord, D-Day allied landings, during WWII by British, United States, Canada, Australia, Czechoslovakia, Norway and Poland troops. The landings on June 6, 1944, included Utah, Gold, Juno, Sword, and Omaha Beach against the Germans occupying France. Omaha Beach is probably the most widely recognized as the site where the Americans landed. One way to get my husband to go to Paris was to promise to visit Normandy. I booked an all day tour in Normandy during our stay in Paris through Expedia, but after doing some research, I discovered that we could avoid a long bus trip by taking the train from Paris to Caen, renting a car and going to the sites that we wanted to see. Since we only set aside one day, our time was limited due to the train schedule. My advice would be to spend the night in Bayeux and come back on the train the next day. Later on, I'll explain why. On our 5th day in Paris, we took a subway from Les Halles station to the Paris Gare Saint Lazare train station to catch the train to Caen. The shortest route is 1 hour and 52 minutes for 20 Euros, first class depending on what’s available. You can also go straight to Bayeux and spend a few days here or meet any of the D-Day Tours available, but it's easier to rent a car in Caen and then drive anywhere in the Normandy region. The Caen Memorial Museum also offers a great experience if you're limited on time and are trying to avoid renting a car. For 131 Euros they will pick you up from the train station for a five hour tour of the landing beaches, the American War Cemetery, Arromanches, and then take you back to catch an evening train. Many tour companies may charge up to $250 each for this tour, but if you take the first train out of Paris, you can save a little and experience a much more comfortable ride out of Paris. |
Caen Memorial and Museum
Our first stop was the Caen Memorial and Museum. On most days the museum is open from 9 am to 7 pm depending on the season. It closes as early as 5 pm on certain days. The entrance is 19 Euros and a family pass is 51 Euros. They also offer combination tickets with other sites included. It’s very convenient to reach the museum from the A84 freeway or the A13 from Paris. |
Omaha Beach
Along the beach at Viereville-Sur-Mer stands the Les Braves War Memorial scuplture representing those who landed on Omaha Beach. The three elements of the sculpture by creator, Anilore Banon, are: The wings of hope So that the spirit which carried these men on June 6th 1944 continues to inspire us, reminding us that together it is always possible to change the future. Rise, Freedom! So that the example of those who rose against barbarity, helps us remain standing strong against all forms of inhumanity. The Wings of Fraternity So that this surge of brotherhood always reminds us of our responsibility towards others as well as ourselves. On June 6th 1944 these men were more than soldiers, they were our brothers. |
|
|
Omaha Beach Museum
Near the Les Braves memorial sculpture is the Omaha Beach Museum. The museum holds an extensive collection of uniforms, vehicles, weapons, arms, personal items. Phases showing the period of occupation are visible throughout the museum which can be seen in a self-guided tour. Towards the end of the tour, you'll have an opportunity to view a film showing testimonies from many veterans as they describe their story of the D-day landings on Omaha Beach and Point du Hoc. As you walk through the self-guided tour, take a moment to see the old photographs and read the notes regarding the landing on Omaha Beach. Appreciating the daily lives the soldiers experienced, you will learn that Operation Overlord was an extensive operation that was decided upon almost six months earlier at a conference in Casablanca. From the planning stages on January 24, 1943 to the landing on June 6, 1944, the allies planned to invade five beaches, but it was at Omaha Beach where the casualties were the greatest as almost 4,000 American soldiers were killed, wounded or missing. A total of 600,000 men, 1,000,000 tons of equipment and 104,000 vehicles landed near Omaha Beach where they built an artificial harbor at Arromanches to facilitate bringing vessels and war gear. |
Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial in Colleville-sur-Mer
Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial
Located about 10 minutes from Omaha Beach in Colleville-sur-Mer is the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial where approximately 9,400 American troops who died in Europe during WWII are buried. The cemetery is actually near the original cemetery that was established temporarily, two days after the landing on June 8, 1944. France does not charge the United States for the use in honor of the forces. Situated overlooking Omaha Beach, it covers 172 acres and holds the remains, mostly of whom died during Operation Overlord and continuing operations until the end of the war. The next of kin decided whether they wanted their family member buried in the United States or at the nearest overseas cemetery. The cemetery was featured in the film, Saving Private Ryan. The story is based on the Niland Brothers, two of whom are buried here and the five Sullivan brothers, we were all killed at Juno. Opposite the old visitor center is a time capsule, containing news reports of the June 6, 1944 landings and is to be opened 100 years later on June 6, 2044. |
|
|
Bayeux
Coming back towards the train station in Caen, we were able to stop in Bayeux for lunch where we tried our first apple cider beer from Calvados. Throughout the Normandy region you may notice apple cider tastings. This area is also famous for Calvados, an apple cider farming community. Here is a link to everything in Bayeux. Bayeux is the nearest larger city to the five beach landings and is home to the Bayeux War Cemetery containing approximately 5,000 graves of soldiers from the United Kingdom and 10 other countries including Germany. Bayeux is best known for its tapestry museum. The Bayeux Tapestry is a historical account of the conquest of England by William the Conqueror in 1066 and it is registered with the UNESCO Memory of the World registry. If you're able to stop in Bayeux, the Cathedrale Notre Dame displays several plaques and stained glass windows honoring American and British sacrifices during the world wars. Guides tours in English are available on Mondays and Fridays at 10 am and 2:15 pm for 4 Euros each. |
Longues-sur-Mer German Battery
One of the highlights on our road trip was stopping at Longues-sur-Mer, the German WWII artillery battery, for an amazing picture next to the German guns that defended their position. Originally, the fortification site consisted of four 152-mm navy guns, some still housed in their concrete casements along the Nazi's Atlantic Wall. These guns fired approximately 170 shots per day forcing ships to retreat to safer waters. By June 7, 1944, three of the four guns were disabled by British cruisers. The next day 184 men surrendered to the British Army. The Office de Tourisme at Longues-sur-Mer offers guided tours in English on weekends (April, May, June, September and October) and every day in the summer, from the first Saturday in July to the first Sunday in September, at 10:15 am and 3:40 pm for 5 Euros each adult, 3 Euros for children. Check their website for current schedule and price. At the battery site, there are also postcards, souvenirs, area guides and refreshments for sale. |
|
|
Arromanches-les-Bains
Arromanches-les-Bains is a seaside town, just a few minutes from Longues-sur-Mer and Juno and Gold Beach. It is here that the allies set up and artificial port with prefabricated marinas, named Port Winston (after Winston Churchill), in order for them to facilitate the movement of 4 million tones of equipment and 500,000 vehicles. The concrete caissons were towed from England and formed a floating bridge. The code name was Mulberry Harbour and designed to achieve the unloading of cargo needed by the invading allied forces. The Museum du Debarquement displays models and dioramas with two films explaining the importance of Port Winston, the key to victory at Normandy. The museum is generally open daily, but closed during the lunch hour and entrance is 8 Euros for adults, 5.90 Euros for children. Take a stroll through the town of Arromanches and you'll find it very lively with restaurants, hotels and pubs. We parked near a grocery store and walked through the streets, many souvenir shops and cafes line the avenues near the museum. If you have extra time, stop at the Mary Celeste for some Bayeux cider, a highly rated pub on 5 Rue Colonel Rene Michel Street. |
Normandy Countryside
Driving back to the Caen train station, we drove through charming small towns such as Crepon and Beny-sur-Mer fascinated and imagining troops and tanks driving through these towns 74 years ago as depicted in old WWII movies. If visiting Normandy is on your bucket list, plan to spend at least four days here, picking up a rental car in Caen and staying in Bayeux. Besides the other landing beaches, some of the sites I would not miss are Sainte-Mere-Eglise, the church where the paratrooper, John Steele, was left dangling on the tower, Pegasus Bridge named in honor of the British troops featured in the movie, The Longest Day and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Mont St. Michel, the island in Normandy which was held as a strategic fortification since ancient times. Scenes 16 and 17 on the Bayeux Tapestry show William the Conqueror at Mont St. Michel. On June 6, 2019, it will be the 75th anniversary of D-day and guaranteed to be a region full of events and excitement, symbolizing freedom and peace. In July 2019, UNESCO will decide whether the beaches at Normandy will be designated a World Heritage Site. |
|
TIPS:
It's easy to do some of the tours yourself by taking the train and renting a car from Caen instead of driving from Paris. Most tours start very early and the train does not get into the Normandy area until about 9 am at the earliest. If you only have a day here, arrive the night before. There are many unique tours that require a full day starting at 7 am. Soon I will post a tour where you can have lunch at a tavern replicated to the WWII period.
It's easy to do some of the tours yourself by taking the train and renting a car from Caen instead of driving from Paris. Most tours start very early and the train does not get into the Normandy area until about 9 am at the earliest. If you only have a day here, arrive the night before. There are many unique tours that require a full day starting at 7 am. Soon I will post a tour where you can have lunch at a tavern replicated to the WWII period.